Building and renovating
Blasting is an acceptable construction practice within the City of Ottawa for the purpose of removing rock. The use of explosives may be required in a variety of construction projects including the construction and/or installation of roads, sewers, water mains, utilities, foundations, tunnels, etc. To prevent flooding, blasting is also used to clear ice blockages in the Rideau River. In either case, stringent rules and a process for notification must be followed. The former Cities of Ottawa and Kanata, and the Region had blasting by-law?s that were repealed in 2003 following this report.
Secondary Dwelling units in accessory structures, termed Coach Houses in the City of Ottawa, were approved by Council on October 26, 2016. A Coach House means:
A separate dwelling unit that is subsidiary to and located on the same lot as an associated principal dwelling unit, but is contained in its own building that may also contain uses accessory to the principal dwelling.
These new housing units are permitted in Ottawa’s urban, suburban and rural areas subject to Section 3.1 of the Official Plan and Section 142 of the Zoning By-law.
The City has created a document, titled: How to Plan Your Coach House in Ottawa. This document helps to understand the process and costs associated with building a coach house. This guide also provides answers to many questions associated with constructing a coach house.
Fences are regulated by the City of Ottawa’s Fence By-law. The By-law states that no person may erect a fence taller than 1 metre in a front yard and 2.13 metres in any other yard in a residential property. There are also regulations that govern the size of gates, archways and decorative caps.
For non-residential properties, the height limit is 3 metres. The City’s By-law also governs the types of materials that a fence may be made out of, as well as the expectation that any fence is to be kept in a state of good repair.
The grade of your property is designed to direct water away from your home towards ideal areas for drainage. Keep these frequently asked grading questions in mind before starting any landscaping projects.
Why is lot grading important?
Proper lot grading keeps surface water away from your home. Your lot should be sloped away from the home to allow all surface water to soak into the ground or flow to the property line. Changes to the grade of your lot can significantly impact how water flows across your property. This can damage your foundation, causing erosion or flooding basements and streets.
What am I responsible for as a property owner?
Property owners are responsible for maintaining the lot grade elevations established by the original grading plan. When hiring private contractors for landscaping or yard alteration, ensure that they respect the intended drainage design when carrying out work. This will reduce additional costs and stress that stems from improper lot grading.
Where can I obtain the grading plan for my property?
If a grading plan exists, residents can review the original plan by submitting an Access to Building Permit Records request. If there is no grading plan on record, please call 3-1-1 for additional grading inquires.
What is a violation of the drainage by-law?
Any action that negatively impacts the intended drainage of a lot violates the drainage by-law. Swales are not to be filled, piped, or obstructed by any landscaping feature such as sheds or gardens. Consult the Site-Alteration By-law before altering your lot.
I’m planning minor landscaping, how do I know if I am violating the drainage by-law?
Small gardens are permitted just as long they do not interfere with the intended drainage of your property. Do not fill in sloped swales or depressions. Never cover a catch basin, they are designed to help remove excess water from your lawn.
Why do I have a catch basin in my backyard?
Catch basins assist both you and properties abutting your lot in removing excess water. Never block a catch basin as that may increase the chances of local flooding. Never pour anything down a catch basin as this leads directly to a nearby waterway. To find out how to dispose of household hazardous waste, please consult the Waste Explorer.
Where should water be redirected?
Water from a downspout should flow onto your property and soak into the ground. Never direct water onto a neighbour's property, a sidewalk, right of way or easement. If space is limited, redirect water to the intended drainage point. Your downspout should be directed away from your home to a permeable surface such as grass. Extend your downspout at least four feet away from your foundation while respecting your neighbour’s property.
Water is pooling on my lawn, is this normal?
Your lot is designed to allow water to infiltrate back into the ground while draining excess water away from the property. This recharges ground water aquifers and reduces the strain on the municipal storm sewer system. If water has not disappeared after 48 hours, please call 3-1-1.
What should I do if my neighbour’s downspout drains on to my property?
Speaking with your neighbour is the first step. Inform them on how their drainage may negatively impact your property. If this does not work, call 3-1-1.
If you still have grading inquiries that have not been answered, please call 3-1-1 for more information.
Pools are considered landscaping under the Zoning By-law. Consequently there is no prohibition as to their location on your property. However, pools must be enclosed (fenced) for safety reasons. This includes any body of water on your property with a depth equal or greater than 600 mm. A permit from the City is required.
Secondary Dwelling units
A secondary dwelling unit is permitted in any detached, linked-detached , semi-detached or townhouse dwelling in any zone where that dwelling type is a listed permitted use provided in the Zoning By-law. The proviso is that the secondary dwelling unit cannot change the streetscape character of the road on which it is located and cannot be capable of being severed into a separate property. It must also be located within the same building as the principle dwelling unit with which it is associated.
For more information, please see the relevant section of the Zoning By-law or contact a Development Information Officer (DIO) by calling 3-1-1.
Create a water-efficient garden
Follow these steps
Prepare the soil to provide nutrients and moisture to help plants grow.
- Add compost, peat moss, or manure to enrich your soil
- Mix the compost or other organic materials into the top 30 centimetres of soil
Choose drought resistant plants to conserve water use.
- Group plants by their water and sun/shade requirements
- Use grass only for well-travelled areas or as a backdrop for flowerbeds
- Use water efficient irrigation techniques, such as soaker hoses for vegetables because they require more water
- Dig an appropriately sized hole for plants
- Add compost mixed with native soil to the bottom of the hole
- Centre the plant in the hole and water, covering the roots to ensure adequate moisture at the time of planting
- Cover the plant with soil matching the soil level of the neighbouring area. Create a ring around the plant and water
Mulch helps control erosion, suppress weeds, retain moisture, control soil temperature and reduce disease transmission. Bark, wood chips, compost, grass clippings and crushed river rock can all be used as mulch material.
- Spread the selected mulch in a layer about 10 cm deep over the garden
Proper irrigation techniques ensure that your garden receives enough water.
- Use soaker hoses or a drip irrigation system to water once a week. This will reduce the amount of water lost to evaporation
- Position sprinklers to avoid paved and hard surface areas
- Take into account the amount of rainfall before watering. Leave a measuring container out in the garden to help assess how much rain falls each week
- Water, if necessary, in the morning. Avoid watering in the afternoon or on windy days when water can be wasted to evaporation
- Collect rainwater in a barrel for garden use
- Reduce the amount of asphalt or concrete around the garden to reduce run off and allow the rain to soak into the ground
Provincial ban on pesticides
Pesticides can pose risks to human health and the environment. Once applied to a lawn or garden, a pesticide may migrate into the air, soil and water. Studies in Ontario have detected some of our lawn and garden pesticides in both surface water and wells.
Ontario’s province-wide pesticide regulation bans the sale and use of cosmetic pesticides and came into effect on April 22, 2009.
The provincial pesticide ban only allows the use of certain lower-risk pesticides for controlling weeds and pests in lawns and gardens, and prohibits the sale and use of pesticides for cosmetic purposes (including many herbicides, fungicides and insecticides) on lawns, gardens, parks and schoolyards. However, it provides exceptions for public health or safety reasons, such as the prevention of West Nile Virus and the control of stinging insects, as well as the destruction, prevention or control of plants that are poisonous to humans by touch.
Proper disposal of pesticides
If you have pesticides stored in your garage or garden shed that are now banned, take them to the Household Hazardous Waste Depot for proper disposal. Left over pesticides should never be disposed in a way that would harm public health or the environment (like being poured down the drain, for example).
Weed killer alternatives
- Remove weeds by hand.
- Plant garlic cloves at 1-foot intervals in garden.
- Use traps or spray soaps.
- Blend 6 cloves crushed garlic, 1 minced onion, 1 tablespoon (14 ml) dried hot pepper, 1 teaspoon (5 ml) pure soap in 1 gallon (4.5 L) hot water. Let sit 1-2 days; strain; spray on plants.
- Replace chemical fertilizers with peat moss, manure, fishmeal or organic compost.
- Lawn fertilizer is unnecessary if lawn is watered properly and you practice grass cycling.
- Grass Cycling: leave grass clippings on lawn; nutrients are reabsorbed into soil. Do not cut grass too short. Thoroughly water lawn (when necessary) in early morning (no more than a couple of hours).
- Aerate lawn every few years.
For more information:
Canadian Association of Physicians for the Environment
Canadian Cancer Society – Pesticides
Commercial products for managing insect pests
There are many pest management products that are not hazardous to the environment.
Some insecticides are derived from plants or plant products and are safer to use. However, they may kill beneficial bugs as well as pests.
Pyrethrins (Pyrethrum) are extracted from flower petals of Chrysanthemum (Tanacetum.) species (pyrethrum daisies). They act as nerve poisons, knocking insects down on contact, but often don’t kill them. These products usually contain another active ingredient that gets rid of insects. Pyrethrins break down rapidly in sunlight and should be applied in the evening or on overcast days, to avoid temperatures above 32°C. Exposure to pyrethrins may result in skin allergies, sneezing, and/or a runny nose. While this product is normally not toxic to plants, maidenhair fern may be adversely affected. Pyrethrins are extremely toxic to fish.
Rotenone is extracted from roots of tropical legumes. It must be ingested by the target pests to be effective. Rotenone is toxic to non-target insects and mites and extremely toxic to fish and pigs. Exposure to Rotenone may cause mild skin or eye irritation in some individuals.
Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki, (B.t.k.) can be used by homeowners for control of caterpillars (Lepidopteran larvae) that feed on plants. It only affects butterfly and moth larvae, although other strains of this bacteria are available for controlling other insects. B.t.k. is a naturally occurring soil bacterium. It must be eaten by the target pest in order to be effective.. B.t k. breaks down in the environment after approximately 2 days. Inhalation of this product can result in allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Do not use B.t.k. if you are trying to establish a butterfly garden.
Diatomaceous Earth is composed of fossilized diatoms (microscopic sea creatures). It acts by scratching the outer waterproofing layer of the insect's body, which leads to dehydration.. In order to be effective, pests must come into contact with this product (e.g. crawl through it). It should be applied to areas where pests feed (e.g. leaf surfaces), or to areas where pests live (e.g. cracks and crevices for earwigs, around ant hills etc.) It must be reapplied after heavy rain. A dust mask and goggles are recommended when applying this product, to keep diatomaceous earth out of your eyes and lungs.
Dormant Oils and Superior Oils act by plugging the holes that insects and mites, as well as their eggs, use to obtain oxygen from the environment. They may also prevent disease spores from germinating. Dormant oils must be applied after leaves of deciduous trees and shrubs drop in the fall or before growth begins in the spring. Superior oils are more highly refined, and can be applied when deciduous plants have foliage or to conifers (they evaporate quickly, before damage to plants occurs). Both are sold as liquid concentrates that are mixed with water for application. They can be used to manage scale insects or insect and mite eggs. They should not be applied when freezing weather is predicted or while foliage is wet. Oils must have time to dry before rain or heavy dew is predicted. Some plants are damaged by oils - read the label carefully to make sure that the plants you are spraying will not harm them (eg. Blue spruce, maple, ferns, etc. ). Oils should not be applied to plants that are stressed by disease or drought, or when the temperature is above 30°C. If in doubt, spray a small test area, and wait for 48 hours to see if the plant is damaged (you will see discolouration or burning of foliage) before treating the entire plant. Superior oils are non-selective, killing any insects and mites contacting the spray.
Insecticidal Soaps contain unsaturated long-chain fatty acids similar to those in household soaps. They kill insects by dissolving the outer, waterproofing layer of an insect's external skeleton (cuticle), causing death by dehydration. They are most effective against small, soft-bodied insects such as aphids, whitefly, mites, and other small, soft insects (e.g. small caterpillars). They are also very effective against earwigs. Applications must be repeated to kill any newly hatched eggs, usually every seven to 10 days, until pest numbers are reduced. Insecticidal soap must come into contact with an insect to work, so all plant surfaces must be thoroughly sprayed. It has no effect once it dries on the plant. Soaps should not be sprayed onto plants during hot sunny periods as plants may be harmed. If in doubt, rinse soap off of treated plants after a few hours.
Soap can damage leaves of some plants (especially bleeding heart, crown of thorns, gardenia, horse chestnut, Japanese maple, maidenhair fern, mountain ash, poinsettias, and sweet peas). Insecticidal Soaps will kill beneficial insects and mites that come into contact with the spray.
Boric Acid is manufactured from Borax and kills pests that ingest it. It is available as dusts, baits, or as a liquid. Boric acid is used primarily as a bait for control of ants. It should be kept out of reach of pets and children, and may kill plants that are exposed to it. It is extremely persistent in the environment.
- parasitic nematodes are widely available for use on lawns to manage white grub populations. These are microscopic worms, which kill both June Beetle and European Chafer larvae. They are living organisms and must be handled with care when being applied to lawns. They must be kept cool before application (keep refrigerated) they must not be exposed to light
- they are mixed with water, and applied to lawns using a hose-end or back-pack sprayer. This must be done at dusk or on an overcast day to avoid exposure to light. Do not let the nematodes sit for more than 2 hours after they have been mixed with water.
- place the nematodes where there are grubs. Water the lawn area thoroughly after applying the nematodes. Nematodes must be applied to moist soil, with a temperature of at least 15°C.
- nematodes will stay in the soil for 60 to 90 days. It is best to apply nematodes just after eggs have hatched if conditions are not too hot and dry.
White grub damage appears as large dead patches on your lawn and is most severe in the fall and spring. Damaged areas will feel soft and spongy when you walk on them before the grass actually dies. The affected areas lift easily because the roots of the grass have been eaten by the grubs.
You will often find the C- shaped white grubs under the areas that you lift. Five or more grubs per 0.1 m² (10 cm²) are enough to seriously damage lawns that are not irrigated. Raccoons, skunks and other small mammals may cause secondary damage on infested lawns by digging up turf searching for a meal of grubs.
Identifying different grubs
Larvae of June Beetle and European Chafer look similar. The only way to tell the difference is to look at their spines. On the June Beetle, the spine is in two parallel lines that join at both ends. On the European Chafer, the spines form a narrow "V", with the top ends diverging. For more information see The Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs fact sheet, Grubs in Lawns.
Managing white grubs
- Healthy, vigorous lawns can put up with grub feeding. They have a larger root system, and root tissue lost to grub feeding can be replaced. Correct cultural practice and adequate irrigation of turf areas (at least 2.5 cm per week) will minimize damage to grass even if grubs are present.
- Adult beetles prefer to lay their eggs into grass areas. Replace damaged turf with other types of plants. (NOTE: Endophyte enhanced grasses resist attack by insects that feed on the blades of grasses. They do not resist attack by root feeding white grubs).
- Parasitic nematodes (microscopic worms) can be used to kill both June Beetle and European Chafer larvae.
- keep them refrigerated and away from light
- mix with water and apply to lawns using a hose-end or back-pack sprayer at dusk or on an overcast day to avoid the light.
- Do not let the nematodes sit for more than 2 hours after they have been mixed with water.
- Water the lawn area thoroughly after applying the nematodes. Nematodes must be applied to moist soil, with a temperature of at least 15°c.
- Nematodes will stay in the soil for 60 to 90 days. Figure out which species of grub is attacking your lawn and use the nematodes to attack the larvae. It is best to apply nematodes just after eggs have hatched if conditions are not too hot and dry.
When to find grubs
To get rid of earwigs you must follow different steps:
- Clean up piles of firewood, plant debris, and loose organic mulches. Caulk around foundation cracks and crevices. Put weather stripping around doors. Inorganic mulches (e.g. stone) are less attractive to earwigs.
- Use traps to catch and eliminate earwigs. Several effective traps can be made from common household materials. For example:
- Use 30 cm lengths of rolled up moistened corrugated cardboard or newspaper, bamboo canes, burlap, canvas or garden hose.
- Pitfall traps can be made by burying a shallow can (e.g. a tuna can) with the lid removed, in the soil and baiting it with vegetable oil.
- A small cardboard box (with a lid) can be converted into an earwig trap by punching 0.5 cm holes in the side near the bottom, and baiting it with bran or oatmeal.
- Commercial earwig traps may be purchased at garden centres and hardware stores. Place traps in areas where earwigs are most likely to hide during the day. Check traps daily (during daylight hours) and empty earwigs into a bucket of soapy water.
- Earwigs are killed when hit with a spray of insecticidal soap, especially on hot, sunny summer days. Locate daytime hiding places and spray liberally. Remember, the insect must be hit with spray for insecticidal soap to be effective.
Hairy chinch bugs
Chinch bug damage appears suddenly in mid-August as sunken brown patches of dead grass on lawns, often with weeds growing in them. Damage will probably be noticed first near hedges, trees or garden beds. The dead grass is firmly attached to the ground, as the roots are not damaged (unlike white grub damage). To verify that hairy chinch bug is responsible for the brown patches, remove the top and bottom of a large can (a coffee can is ideal) and twist it through the turf and into the soil in an area adjacent to the damaged grass. Fill the can with water and scrape the turf inside with your fingers. If hairy chinch bugs are present, they will float to the surface of the water after a few minutes. More than 20-25 bugs per sample indicate that you have a problem.
Identifying hairy chinch bugs
Hairy Chinch bugs are tiny (approximately 5 mm) black and white insects, with six reddish legs. Their wings are white, with a dark spot on the outer margin and are held flat over their back.
Getting rid of hairy chinch bugs
- Hairy Chinch Bugs thrive in hot dry conditions. Water lawns regularly beginning in late May to reduce the pest population.
- Chinch Bug does not like to feed on grasses infected with the fungus Acremonium. Plant endophyte-enhanced varieties of grass.
- Reduce excess thatch through proper lawn care practices.
- Chinch bugs prefer feeding on soft young grass. This type of growth is stimulated by applications of high nitrogen fertilizers. When you suspect you have a problem with this pest, modify your fertilizer use.
Find out safe ways to get rid of pests.
Need more info?
Find out everything you need to know:
- Canadian Wildlife Federation
- Natural Lawn Care
- Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs
- Pesticide Action Network - North America
- Landscape Ontario
- Healthy Lawns Pest Management Regulatory Agency
When to find grubs
Two different species of white grub commonly attack lawns in the Ottawa area. They are the immature stage (larvae) of two different species of scarab beetle, the June Beetle and the European Chafer. Both species of grub are C-shaped, with soft, wrinkled white bodies, a brown or tan head and 6 brown spiny legs. They range in size from 3mm when newly hatched, to 2 to 4cm when full grown. They can be found in the soil, feeding on the roots of grasses, weeds or almost any roots they find. They appear at different times of the year which may affect how and when you can get rid of them.
May or June Beetles require three years to complete their life cycle. Adults are large brown beetles found feeding on the upper leaves of trees in late May or early June (or at porch lights or banging into screens in the evening). They lay their eggs in the soil in grassy or weedy areas. These eggs hatch in a few weeks (mid-June), and larvae begin feeding on roots and decaying organic material. When cool temperatures arrive, the larvae move below the frost line to spend the winter. In the spring, when the soil warms, larvae return to the root area and resume feeding. When fall arrives, the second year larvae move below the frost line to spend the winter. The third spring, June beetle larvae move to grass roots to feed for a short time, then pupate. Adults emerge from the soil the following spring. In infested areas, one, two and three year old grubs may be present together.
The European Chafer requires only 1 year to complete their life cycle. The adult European Chafer is very similar in appearance to the June Beetle, but is usually present and laying eggs beginning in late June to mid July, about the time that hybrid tea roses are in full bloom. Their larvae begin feeding immediately following hatching as long as moisture is present in the root zone. They reach their full size by the end of September; however can remain feeding until November or December, when they move down in the soil to overwinter. They migrate back to grass roots and resume feeding in early spring the next year, even before the snow melts. They pupate by mid to late May (approximately when Bridal Wreath Spirea is at full bloom) and adults appear mid- to late June.
Approximate time for white grub feeding in Ottawa
Year 1: June to September
Year 2: April to September
Year 3: April to May
Year 1: March to May and August to November
Privately Owned Trees
The City of Ottawa does not regulate the location of a tree on private property. Any complaints regarding a neighbour's tree, hedge, bush being too close to the property line or infringing upon another property, it is a Civil Matter and cannot be dealt with or solved by the City. This also applies to trimming overhanging branches from another private property.
When a tree trunk is located exactly over the property line and the tree technically belongs to both residents, it is regulated by the Ontario Forestry Act. For more information consult either the Ontario Forestry Act or contact Service Ontario at 1-800-268-8758.
For dead or dangerous trees on private property, consult the Dead or Dangerous Tree procedure in Property Standards.
Determining Ownership of a Property
There are approximately 3,500 properties in the City of Ottawa designated under the Ontario Heritage Act. There are a variety of mechanisms through which heritage properties are identified and protected, including being listed on the Heritage Register, individual designation under Part IV of the Ontario Heritage Act or by being designated as part of a heritage conservation district. Properties can also be included under the Zoning By-law’s Heritage Overlay.
The effect of these various designations can be to limit the demolition or alteration of such properties. More information can be found through Heritage Conservation.
Land Registry Office
ServiceOntario manages and operates 54 Land Registry Offices throughout Ontario which register, store and manage documents such as deeds, mortgages and plans of survey.
Registration of real property is done under either the Land Titles Act or the Registry Act.
All registered and deposited records are available to the public (for a fee) to search title or obtain information about the ownership of real property.
Contact Land Registry Office in Ottawa:
Ottawa-Carleton No. 4
161 Elgin Street 4th Floor
Ottawa ON K2P 2K1
Tel: (613) 239-1230
Fax: (613) 239-1422
An easement is a right held by one property owner to make use of the land of another for a limited purpose, for example as a right of passage.
Easements are usually indicated on the title of a property. There may be a plan of survey accompanying the title. To obtain a copy of your property’s title, contact the Land Registry Office at 613-239-1230.
There are four types of Property Easements:
Behind townhomes, on private property When a new block of townhomes is built, the developer usually has the buyer sign a purchase agreement stating that owners of end units will leave access at rear of property for residents in the middle units, to access their rear yard from the outside (to bring their lawnmowers, etc.). The agreement will state that if end unit owners build a fence, they must leave a gate for residents of middle units to go through.
NOTE: This is not part of any City bylaw and has nothing to do with the City. If there is a disagreement, it is a civil matter. If the owner of an end unit blocks off the easement, nobody at the City can have it rectified.
Utility easements (non City) on residential private properties Residents may have a utility pole in their yard on their own property. Utility workers must have access to the property for maintenance purposes. A utility easement can also be a passage only (no poles, etc., on property, just a right of passage). These easements occasionally include a height restriction for structures on the property. Residents are not supposed to build structures, plant trees, etc., in utility easements. If a homeowner blocks a utility easement, it is a civil matter between the homeowner and the utility; the City will not get involved.
Utility easements on utility owned land These are usually strips of land, sometimes many kilometres long, which run along the back of residential/commercial developments. They usually have major hydro lines, and are maintained by Hydro.
City Sewer easements Some properties have a catch basin or manhole cover in the rear or side yard. The City may require access for maintenance, and will approach property owner if easement has been blocked.
Note: When a property is purchased, the homeowner should check for easements in case they plan on building something (swimming pool, etc.) in the future. Lawyers usually look into this. As a homeowner, you will not necessarily be informed about existing easements and can purchase Title Insurance (A policy that protects a buyer against omissions or errors or defects in the title of the property).
Property Lines - Land Survey
The City of Ottawa does not regulate property lines, it is managed by the province.
To determine the location of a property's lot line, consult a copy of a registered survey of the property. When a house is purchased, the new homeowner's lawyer usually provides a copy if it exists. There might be a copy on file at the Land Registry Office at the Provincial Courthouse at 180 Elgin St.
If no survey exists, a private surveyor will need to survey the property.
Property Tax Deferral Program
The City of Ottawa offers two property tax deferral programs for low-income seniors and low-income people with disabilities. Eligible homeowners may apply for a full or partial deferral of annual property taxes. Application for tax deferral must be made annually to the City of Ottawa to establish eligibility or confirm continued eligibility.
For general information regarding both programs, consult the Low-income Seniors & Low-income Disabled Persons Tax Deferral Program information page.
Right of way
This term refers to the City-owned portion of a piece of land. It is very often wider than the road and sidewalks that may abut your property and can extend to a considerable extent onto your property. The City maintains a right-of-way wider than the width of the road in the event that a road widening becomes necessary at some point in the future.
Notwithstanding this, a property owner is still responsible for maintaining the City-owned portion of their land, with respect to matters such as grass cutting and snow clearance. The exact extent of the City’s right-of-way can be determined through a Plan of Survey and the City’s GeoOttawa program can provide a rough guide as to the exact extent of the right-of-way.
Private Approach - Driveways
A private approach refers to a depressed curb that allows vehicular access to your property. Very often, private approaches are approved as part of the Site Plan Control Process. Notwithstanding this, the City has a Private Approach By-law that governs the location of such facilities. A permit is required if you wish to establish, widen or close your driveway
Determining the Zoning of a Property
The zoning of a property determines certain factors:
- Permitted size/height of a new structure
- Permitted location of a new structure
- Permitted use of land/building
- Possibility of rezoning of an existing property
- Possibility of lot severance
- Use of temporary garage (plastic portable winter garage)
General Zoning Information may be found online at the Zoning By-Law Information page.
For more information on zoning, and on appropriate land use, contact a Development Information Officer (DIO). Consult the online contact list for the appropriate Development Information Officer or visit any of City of Ottawa's Client Service Centre at the Building Code Services counter.
Front Yard Parking
The Zoning By-law governs the location of parking on private property. In general, front yard parking is prohibited. For example, you cannot park your vehicle in the front yard of your property, in front of the front walls of the building.
You can park your vehicle in a garage attached to your property, and in the driveway leading to the garage or in the side yard abutting your property. For more information, and diagrams showing where you can and cannot park on your property, please see the relevant section of the Zoning By-law. Please refer specifically to the section addressing residential zones.
A Non-Conforming Right is the right to a particular land use that is no longer legal for the property in question. In order to be eligible, the original land use has to have been legal at the time it was established and has to have been continuous in use since that time.
How to Establish a Non-Conforming Right
In some instances, it is possible to formally establish a Non-Conforming Right. This is done through the submittal of an affidavit to the City of Ottawa. Pre-consultation with a Development Information Officer (DIO) is recommended. For further information see Development Application Highlights.
Depending on your property’s Zoning designation and type, you can rent up to three rooming units. For more information, please see the relevant section of the Zoning By-law.
The term setback refers to the distance between the wall of a property and the lot line. The Zoning By-law prescribes setbacks for all properties in Ottawa, which will vary depending on the specific zoning designation under the By-law.
There are four setbacks: front yard, both side yards and rear yard. The setback is expressed in terms of metres. It is important to note that the front yard lot line is often not the same as the point at which your property meets the street or sidewalk. The exact location of lot lines can only be determined by a Plan of Survey, although the City’s geoOttawa program can provide a rough guide as to where the lot lines lie.